Sewing Class, Part 2: Aesthetics

The transition from sewing mechanics to costume design began with discussion of six characteristics of a well-designed costume: harmony of color; balance; emphasis; proportion; rhythm; harmony of line and decoration.

Balance can be "formal," (with mirror symmetry);
or "informal";
or sadly lacking with laughable result.

One part is to be emphasized - have more interest -
than the rest,
yet be related to the entire garment.

Is the ribbony bit centered or scattered?  I worry.

Click to enlarge.  "Good proportion is the pleasing relationship of parts."
"The flowing Grecian costume was simply girdled at the waistline
thus breaking up the long dress into two parts . . .
Thus in order to have a pleasing effect the division must fall
somewhere between one-half and two-thirds
of an area."

"Fig. 1 is pleasing because (the) mind is able to recognize
approximitly (sic) the relation of the parts
to each other and to the large oblong.
But because the mind does not decete (sic) the exact
proportion at once the attention is stimulated
and held
and interest is the result."

Flash to c1970: Four senior girls are standing on the front steps of Iroquois Central High School, Elma, New York, waiting in the chilly air for their parents to pick them up at 9am.  They have been sent home to change their clothes!  Why, were they immodest? Noooo.  Were they sporting gang uniforms? Noooo.  Were they strutting around in historical-criminal regalia?  Noooo.   They were wearing Empire-style long gowns - you know, like Jane Austen characters wore, except with higher necklines and homier homespun fabric. They had made their "granny dresses" themselves, and looked like Colonial-era American lasses.

So what was their offense?  Silly question: it was being out of conformity.  It made a big impression on me.  Great teaching job, Iroquois!

So anyway, too bad they could not quote classical Greek principles of proportion, like the one above, to the Principal.

"Fig.5.  an illustration of the Greek Law of Proportion.
The Greek Law of Proportion is:  Two lines or areas
are comparable, interesting and desirable (sic)
when one is between half and 2/3
the length or area of the other."

(1970 example: "granny dress,"
with or without "granny glasses.")

"The human figure is an example of fine proportion
and the costumes which have been considered beautiful
through all ages regardless of fashion
are those which have been formed
to the natural divisions of the body."

"Rhythm is present in a design when the eye is led easily
from one part of it to another.  Rhythm is an easy connected path
along which the eye may travel in any arrangement
of lines, colors, objects or light and dark effects.
In a perfectly plain space there is no movement
but the moment a pattern is placed upon the plain space rhythm is created.
This movement may be organized and easy and thus rhythmic
or it may be restless and distracting and lacking in rhythm."

Web designers, are you paying attention?

Repetition, at left;
Gradation, at right.

Opposition, at left;
Radiation, at center;
Transition, at right.

"Harmony is an agreeable combination of parts
making a connected whole . .
A well designed dress needs little decoration but whatever decoration it has
should appear to be a needed part of the dress
not something added to it after it was finished."

Fig. 1.  Vertical lines and divisions make a space appear taller and narrower.
Fig. 2. Horizontal lines make a space appear shorter and wider.
Fig. 3. A narrow panel makes a space appear taller and narrower.
Fig. 4. A wide panel makes a space appear wider.
Fig. 5. Vertical inward sloping lines decrease width.
Fig. 6. Vertical outward sloping lines increase width.
Fig. 7. Horizontal sloping lines add width."

There is more in these course notes.  For example, attributes of color are discussed: hue, value, intensity, and color harmonies.  Types of fabric and of weave are described in detail.  But for these, as well as for the appropriateness of dress and the clothing budget, you will have to come and visit me.

Wear what you like.

Just be ready to defend your choice on the basis of timeless aesthetic principles.

Mum

Sewing Class, Part 1: Mechanics

Clara Matynka, our CAMZ, took a sewing class in school, either in 8th grade (1943) or 9th grade (1944.)  Her class notes, after sixty years in attics, shall now be largely on the internet so her grandchildren can see them.  This is known in biology as "alternation of generations."  What it is called in family life, I cannot say.

Now you must attend and understand, Best Beloved, that "Gittere" is pronounced "GIT-tree."  This is as in:

"Hey, where we having Thanksgiving dinner?"

"On Gittere, hey."

Look at this!  Clara scored 99 out of 100 points for quality of workmanship in her dressmaking project.  Then Mrs. Landsman deducted 12 points for lateness!  Matka Boska!

I class Mrs. Landsman with my own Mrs. Merrill, about whom I shall say no more.

The course started off with a consideration of the anatomy and physiology of a sewing machine, as is proper.  The Singer diagram was dated 1914, interestingly;  after forty years the basic parts were recognizeably the same.  As to how it works in the loopy bit below stage, I myself still have no idea, not being as smart as Isaac Singer.

Then came the study of the cartography, or surgical anatomy, of garment patterns.

Then came practice in suture patterns, in a big section named "Seams."

The instructor did not just say "There are many kinds of seams," nor did she make them watch movies that just said the same thing, like my own teacher did a generation later.  The students sewed each kind, and turned in a sample of each kind.  Any subject can be approached in slacker mode, or with rigor.

Hem at the top; double and single lines of stiching;
at the bottom, hand-basting of ravel edge.

Plain seam, pinked;
Plain seam, overcast;
Plain seam, edge stitched;
Plain seam, "bound" with "seam binding";
French seam.

Add caption

Fell seam;
Mock French;
Lapped seam.

"Lesson 6: Bias" explains in plain language what I have never heard, nor intuited for myself: how flat cloth can be made to fit a curved, three-dimensional human body.

"Material is woven of two threads:
1. Lengthwise or warp (stronger thread)
2. Crosswise or woof (weaker thread)

A bias is cut diagonally across these two threads.

The advantage of using a bias is that it stretches and fits around a curved edge making a flat smooth finish."

These four hand-worked buttonholes were graded at 80%.

Next time, having considered mechanics, we shall proceed to aesthetics.